Wednesday, February 25, 2009
One Last Battlefield--February 25
We have decided to push on to Clarksville and have dinner with my cousin Cindy and her husband, Walt. We arrive at 4:45, set a dinner time for 6 and find our campsite for the night. Since it is Ash Wednesday we change our dinner from a steakhouse to Olive Garden. We have a nice, leisurely dinner with Cindy and Walt, give her the coins from Al for her and her sister Peggy, and head back to the RV park for a quiet evening.
Another Battlefield--February 24
We go to the Kennesaw Mountain Museum. Another Civil War site. They abound in this corridor. This was a very important battle in securing the railroad line and cutting off the supply to the South. We check out the museum and then drive to the top of the mountain. We can see as far as downtown Atlanta and Stone Mountain to the south. I try to imagine what it would be like standing on the top of that mountain waiting for a charge by the enemy. Would you see then before they climbed that last obstacle? It’s not entirely clear that you would.
After a late dinner we watch Wall-E. I’ve seen it before but it is even better because I can take in the background so much more.
Anderonville and On--February 23
While food was short, the most serious problem was water. All the water for the prisoners came from a slow moving stream that ran through the bottom of the hill. Prior to entering the prison area it was used by the Confederate soldiers as their latrine and medical waste was thrown into the stream. In the summer the stream wasted away to a trickle and was seriously polluted by the waste from the Confederates upstream and the latrine area for the prisoners downstream. A mosquito bite could be life threatening if scratched so much that it opened the skin. And Andersonville is below the ‘gnat line,’ that line in Georgia where the gnats in summer are so thick that you have to keep blowing upward to keep them at bay. While there were bad prison conditions in the North, none were as bad as Andersonville where 29% of the prisoners died. In addition, once they were ‘rescued’, thousands of them lost their lives on boats going home.
The POW Museum is set up so that you start with capture and end with ‘coming home.’ It is very well done, with a lot of personal accounts of soldiers and their families. It is very powerful. The greatest fear of the families was that the person that left wouldn’t be the person who came back. I can well understand that.
By 5 PM we are at Jim and Lynn Yates’ home in Acworth. Nice visit. We stay until 7 and then head out for dinner before going to Ann Glendinning and Dale Kelly’s. We are so comfortable with them. They share so many of our values, are interested in the same things, and can discuss it all with tremendous insight.
Birthday Day--February 22
We head for Americus and our hotel—yes, hotel. It is my birthday and I want a bathtub. I’ve had nothing but showers this trip. It’s time for a bathtub. We check into the hotel, an 1890’s Queen Anne/Victorian red stone and brick structure that takes up half of the entire block. It is a wonderful building with a 3-story lobby surrounded by balconies at each level. The lobby floor is the original marble. The hotel was essentially abandoned in the 60’s, after being turned into apartments and rented out for a number of years. Mr. Patel purchased it in the 90’s and renovated it. I wish him much success. It’s a hard business.
We check out the visitor information next door then head for Plains, GA, with a map in hand. The Plains High School now is an historic site, with Carter exhibits throughout the building and a video in the old auditorium. We spend an hour or so there and then go by the Carter house (the one that was built in 1961 and has had only one addition since, a garage to replace the one that Jimmy turned into a workshop). We drive to the Carter family farm where Jimmy lived until going away to the Naval Academy. It is actually in Archery, GA, a tiny town that had 12 black families and 2 white families. The Carters had a farm and a store, so they were relatively prosperous. I admire Jimmy Carter, the man, although I think that Jimmy Carter, the president, was relatively ineffective. I really hate the way he lost the election; I think the hostage crisis wasn’t his fault.
We go back to town, do a drive by of interesting houses, and look for a restaurant. Again, not much choice on a Sunday. The restaurant in the hotel isn’t open and neither is any other eating place downtown. We head out the highway and our choices boil down to Ryan’s Steakhouse and Ruby Tuesday. I choose Ryan’s. It turns out to the one of those buffet places, but they have pickled beets so I decide we’ll stay. We are the only white folks in the place for about half an hour, but then others come in. It’s not a problem, just an observation. I am aware of it and wonder if blacks are equally aware when they are the only blacks in a restaurant. Wouldn’t recommend Ryan’s if you have any other options.
We go back to the hotel, I take by bath, and settle in to watch the Academy Awards. Didn’t think of that when I requested a hotel!
Checking Out the Club--February 21
Most people ate their meals in the club, there was housing for extra servants and chauffeurs, there was lots of island left over for golf and croquet and hunting (it was originally designated a hunting club but hunting decline). By the 1940’s the Club was in dire shape; the depression had hit them hard, Florida was THE place to go, and no one wss interested in putting money into the Club. The State of Georgia took it by eminent domain and made it a state park. They have gradually renovated a few of the ‘cottages’, the Clubhouse, which had a number of additions over the years, is now a hotel run by Radisson, and it is all quite swish. We stop for a drink in the bar and sink into soft leather chairs. Despite the cold there are people (little type people) in the swimming pool.
At night we have a campfire, using up all of our wood we have purchased and scarfed up.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Checking out St Simon's--February 20
We go to Fort Frederica, the town created by James Oglethorpe. It was part of the English effort to claim land farther south along the east coast and to protect their Savannah interests. The big conflicts occurred between Fort Frederica and the Castillo in St. Augustine. The remains of the town were excavated in the 40’s, and thousands of artifacts have been unearthed. They do a good job of telling the story of the town. It seems that Oglethorpe ruled with an iron glove; he decided who could do what, where they could live, etc. Needless to say, there were many people who found it untenable and moved out. Then, after Spain and England signed a treaty, the troops were no longer needed there and moved it. It spelbled the death of the town. That and fire, of course. Fire must have been the greatest fear of everyone. Here there were tabby houses, built of a mixture of lime, sand, and shells. But then they covered the outside with wood, so it would look like home. Not a good idea. We meet one of the most enthusiastic park workers we have ever met and she does a good job ‘selling’ the place. We recommend it highly.
Next stop is the Coast Guard Station, which, sadly, doesn’t open until March. Doesn’t say anything about that in the literature we have picked up. So then we go to the lighthouse. First challenge is how to get into the building. Every door we go to, and there are many, sends us to another. It’s $6 each for a small exhibit and the chance to climb 129 steps to the top of the lighthouse. We take it. It says that the lighthouse keeper went up to the top of the lighthouse an hour before dusk and stayed there all through the night. I can’t figure out how he kept warm! Perhaps at some time in the past there was a stove at the top level, but there isn’t room there now.
We tour the downtown and check out the hardware store. It is all pretty quiet. I wonder how much is the recession and how much is just the time of year. On our way back we decide to check out Brunswick. It is now a port for incoming cars from Europe and is relatively busy. We see a pizza place and stop for dinner. It’s very good as is the salad. We recommend the place, too.
Once back on the island we tour the southern fourth just to see what’s there. Not much. We get back to the campground and reinstall ourselves in the dark.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Amelia Island Sojourn--February 19
We are going a very short distance today, only about 80 miles to Jekyll Island, GA. This island was once owned by French émigrés who sold it to a consortium of very wealthy men who formed the Jekyll Island Club. It stayed in their hands until Georgia bought it and made the entire island into a state park. The ‘cottages’ of the rich are still here as is the Jekyll Island Club House (now a hotel). Over 60% of the island is wooded. There are bike trails covering the entire island and it is surrounded by water—the Atlantic on one side and the intracoastal waterway on the other. On the east side there is a wide expanse of marsh, the result of a hurricane around the 1900’s.
We find the campground, owned by the state but managed by someone else. We find our campsite, not a pretty as our last two and not nearly as private. It is almost like being in an RV park as far as space is concerned. The woman next door is from northern Wisconsin and she and her husband come down here for 5 ½ months each year. The more permanent residents have a plague hanging in front of their campsites with their name and an outline of their state, clearly provided by the management since they are all alike.
We read the many brochures and booklets we have picked up on our way into Georgia and onto the island and then decide to do rather than just read. We unload the bikes and set off down island. There isn’t much commercial activity on the island—a few restaurants, the Club, a small IGA food store, and a ‘shopping center’ that would pass as a tiny strip mall anyplace else. The bike surfaces are widely varied, from wide concrete to rough path with lots of roots, from former roadway to narrow, bumpy blacktop. It’s too bad that we have left our computers at home because I would really like to know how many miles we have biked so far on this trip. We pick up a pound of Georgia shrimp at the store and head home on the other side of the island.
I play my piano while Norb goes for a walk and checks out the campground. Not a single Navion parked here other then ours. How unusual. In fact, there are few small rigs. Dinner—shrimp, baked potatoes, peas, and cucumbers and tomatoes. I don’t have white vinegar for the cukes and so I use balsamic. It’s good. I have a new recipe. After dinner, laundry and reading.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
At the Beach--February 18
We bike into Fernandina Beach for lunch. Charming town. We eat at Café Karibo, one of the slowest service places ever. Good food but we thought perhaps we had been forgotten. We ride up and down streets, admiring the Victorian homes. We try to find a less busy route home, but to no avail. We check out the pier in the park, 2,500 feet long. Surf is up and surfers are out. Fishermen are out, too, but nobody seems to be catching anything. We also check out the beachside campground and rejoice in ours—this campground is wide open and palm trees are the only shade. Another fire and then rain.
St Augustine Tour--February 17
Once in St. Augustine the hardest part is finding a place to put the RV. While the trolley tours offer free parking, they don’t offer a space that’s amenable to parking the RV. We find a place on the street where we JUST fit within the lines and can pull far enough forward that we can be sure we can get out. We take the Ripley’s on-and-off tour, hopping off at the Hugenot Cemetery (can’t get in so we circle it) and back on in the middle of old town, off again at the Basilica and back on, off at the Castillo (which we remember from freezing there many years ago). It’s a lovely town but really small.
We head north to Jacksonville on Hwy A1A, which leads us to the St. John’s ferry, which will cut hours off our trip. Sadly the ferry is closed from February 3 to 23. We don’t discover this until we turn onto the final road to the ferry. We turn around and take the long way, which is now much longer because we cut so far inland.
Fort Clinch State Park at Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island is our destination. Nice campsite but not as nice as Anastasia Island. We are within 100 feet of the beach, which is loaded with shells. There are 2 other View/Navions in the campground, so we are among compadres. There is a different set of people who choose to RV in small units; they tend to be travelers rather than stayers, they tend to be more like us, and it’s interesting to discuss where they have been and what changes/problems they have with their ‘rig’. One couple we meet has been to Alaska in their Navion. Both Navions are the same model as we have.
We have our first campfire of this trip. We bought the wood weeks ago but haven’t been in a place that seemed amenable to a fire. We are now officially camping.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Heading North--February 16
We set the alarm for 7:30 because we want to have breakfast with Don before he goes to work at the bike shop. It also gives us a chance to get our things organized for leaving without interfering with our time with Don and Marianne. After breakfast we bid Don farewell, load our things in Marianne’s car, hop on our bikes and head for the RV. We have turned off the fridge, so there are a few things in there that need to be tossed. We do some preliminary tucking away, put the bikes on the back, and head out at 9:30.
We pick up Highway 1 and meander north through town after town for about 80 miles before our patience wears out and we decide to head for I95. While it zooms us north at a much faster rate, it is truly boring. Flat, barren land on either side of it, occasional exits and entrances, construction that constricts the lanes and slows everybody else to our speed—the limit is 70 and we usually go 65. Finally at Daytona Beach we head for A1A. No traces left of yesterday’s Dayton 500, which turned out to be the Dayton 428 because the race was called for rain. Lots of motels along the ocean, but we are once again east of the intracoastal waterway. Much more interesting riding. We stop for groceries. We have a week ahead of us before we stay with Dale and Ann in Acworth, GA.
We pass our favorite campground at Flagler Beach and notice that there are some RV’s there about our size. We’ll have to reserve sooner next time we want to stay there. When we tried to reserve this time, none of the sites open could take anything over 10 feet. We arrive at Anastasia State Park just south of St Augustine at 5:30. It’s a really cool park with a 5 mile ‘private’ beach—you can only reach it via the state park so there are no buildings on it. Private campsites. Level campsites. We are sorry that we are only staying here for one night. There are 3 other Navion/Views on our loop, that’s 4 out of 14 sites, almost one-third.
Along A1A--Feburary 15
Sleeping in. It’s 9:30 before we get up. We skim the papers then decide to go to the clubhouse for breakfast. I get a Southern Benedict—eggs benedict done with a sausage patty. Pretty good. The place is swarming with kids. The long weekend has brought families down to visit. Marianne reports that more young people are moving in. They no longer offer a benefit for new members under 60.
We go back to give Archie, the parrot, fresh water before heading out. We wander over to A1A, which runs east of the intracoastal waterway along some of the most exclusive housing in this part of Florida, past Donald Trump’s place and up to Palm Beach. This is the part of A1A that Don and the Florida Bicycle Association went to court over. They lost the battle but won the war. FDOT now has to include a bicycle lane when they are redoing a road unless there is some overriding reason that they can’t acquire the land. Downtown PB isn’t my cup of tea so we go to the more downscale West Palm Beach and its main street. It is sad to see the empty storefronts and restaurants, but there were a fair number of people out and about. We go home down the Dixie Highway, otherwise known as Highway 1. Much less picturesque than A1A, but much faster.
We sit and talk, watch a bit of TV, eat some snacks and the go to Senor Burrito in Del Ray Beach for dinner, our treat. We had eaten there when we were here 3 years ago and liked it. The restaurant has expanded but it is still good.
Valentine's day--February 14
We sleep in until 9:20! After breakfast, we sit around talking and discussing our various options. We decide to bike around Hunter’s Run, which is a huge complex. We stop at the clubhouse for lunch and you can tell it’s a holiday weekend by the number of children in the pool. It’s warm—80 and a little more—but the ride is easy. We are eating in tonight. Going out to dinner on Valentine’s Day is craziness.
Boynton Beach--February 13
We told our friends last night that we were leaving after breakfast. Flo added, “And it will be a late breakfast.” We pack up and hug. I make Flo promise to take good care of herself. She suggests that we could just move down there. No wonder she has always been my favorite aunt. We have a special bond that probably goes back to my childhood when she was my second mother. She and Mom were a lot like Judy and I are today, so close that we think alike. Judy and I will be traveling and I’ll say, “How about stopping for dinner?” and she’ll say, I was just thinking about recommending that.
We drive leisurely to Boyton Beach, stopping at one point to eat lunch and climb up the dike to look at the almost nonexistent Lake Okochobee. So much of it is gone now that it is more Canal Okochobee. The water level in Florida keeps dropping because of the dual pressures of increased population and decreased rainfall. The springs seep now instead of springing, the everglades are dying because they aren’t being fed, and sinkholes develop where there used to be a water table.
We arrive at our meeting point with Marianne. We have to store our RV because the complex where they live doesn’t allow RVs. They don’t even allow pickup trucks to park overnight! When we stopped for lunch we packed our bags, but because we can’t find a level place to park we need to turn off the refrigerator, which means that we must unload that, too. We put our things in Marianne’s car and we ride our bikes the short distance to Hunter’s Run.
Come evening we go to a party at Tuscany—another complex—on the intracoastal waterway. Friends of Don and Marianne have invited us. Rina was born in Brooklyn and Bernard was born in Algeria and raised in Morocco. Interesting people but the music is too loud to allow for easy conversation. In fact, we sit for quite a while after the music stops because we can finally talk!
Dinner with Friends--February 12
Flo and Ralph take us out for breakfast today. We go to the Farmers’ Market restaurant, an eatery that touts Southern cooking. Norb and Ralph have a mullet breakfast, complete with grits. I have southern ham and the waitress warns me that it’s salty. Good place. I recommend it if you get to Ft Myers. It’s not on any main road so you really have to seek it out.
We come home and Flo has unearthed some early photos, per our request. We spend hours looking at them. On many of them the people are identified; she gets a gold star for that. But there are many that are blank on the back. I take a few. I love old photos. I think about how I should organize my photos and also realize that I haven’t been getting photos from my sons with the regularity that I used to send them to my parents. I think it’s because when we would get pictures developed we would always have 2 made. One went to the parents and the other into our files. Now the photos are all digital so they rarely get developed. Erik used to give me a CD of pictures at Christmas but not lately. He did give us a book of pictures of Ellie last Mother’s Day and that is wonderful, and we got a few pictures during the year, but not that many. And the only recent pictures we have of Shawn’s girls were the class pictures that I scarfed up before I went to India last fall.
We eat a light lunch, Ralph takes a rest, I read. We leave for Giavannone’s in Estero at 3:30 so that we can stop at Frank and Pam’s and see all of Pam and Frank’s grandchildren. Obie’s join us for dinner. Wonderful evening with old friends.
Euchre Again--February 11
We are getting so lazy. We rarely wake up before 8, much less get up. After breakfast Ralph gets a call saying that he can come in for dialysis early if he wants. He wants. Flo drops him off and comes back for us. We go to the public library so that I can get on line and update the blog. We head to south of the river to go to Costco. Can you imagine we have been gone for 2 weeks and haven’t stepped foot into a Costco? We usually check them out along the road just to see what they have that is different. It is early afternoon and most of the tasters have gone home. Darn. I know people who go to Costco to eat lunch! We get beer to replenish Flo’s supply, some low energy lightbulbs (Norb’s crusade) and some lobster salad to leave behind when we leave. Norb forgot to pack shorts so he finds 2 different pairs, we pay for them, he tries them on and returns 1 pair.
We go to the orange juice place that we visit every time we come here. We are running short of time and need to rush, so we grab 3 gallons of freshly squeezed orange juice (1 for us, 1 for Flo and Ralph, and 1 to take as a gift to our friends on Thursday) and 4 large Star grapefruit. The line for the ice cream is too long, so we miss out on the orange/vanilla swirl. Too bad.
We pick Ralph up and go to dinner at Athena Restaurant. It’s 4:30 PM and we have our choice of places to sit. It’s the classic Greek restaurant—a huge menu with a few Greek things on it. They don’t make their own gyros; they are out of a box. So I rule that out. I order feta and cheese as an appetizer and shock the waitress. I don’t think anybody has ever ordered it before. She made me show it to her on the menu. I order the Greek chicken and it comes with soup, salad, potato or rice, and dessert. The soup is okay, the salad is good, the fries are crispy, and I can only eat a portion of my chicken because I want to save myself for rice pudding. By the time we are ready to leave the place has almost filled up. We end up with 3 take home boxes (Norb is the only one that can finish his meal) so we add to the leftovers in the fridge.
We play Euchre again in the evening. I am finally in my groove and manage to be on the winning end this time.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Lazy Day--February 10
We go to the flea market at the Shell Factory and score 2 Fire King peach bowls, 2 Corelle cups with the overlapping handles, a Corelle bowl and a DVD. We buy lots of veggies—cauliflower, green beans, tomatoes—for dinner. This is actually a higher quality flea market than Monday’s stop. Guess it’s a function of being in a city.
Frank and Pam come to visit, Charmaine stops by with her son, Connor. Nice visit. Dinner then more Euchre.
From Mt Dora to Dora's Mom--February 9
‘On’ is the flea market at Webster. This was one of the favorite places for Mom and Dad; only runs on Monday. This was where you bought tomatoes and Plant City strawberries and odds and ends and spent a good morning browsing. Norb decides to stop a few miles short of Webster at another flea market and by the time we have surveyed the scene and bought our tomatoes and strawberries (Plant City ones, of course) we are flea marketed out. Webster is a 2-mile traffic jam getting into town and a 5-mile backup on the other side of the road as we leave town. Obviously, Webster is THE flea market to go to. Maybe next time.
On our way to the interstate we pass by Ridge Manor West and cut in to check our my parents’ old home. It’s looking pretty much the same. The community as a whole looks pretty much the same. The crummy house at the corner that has always been a blight on the neighborhood looks pretty much the same. We drive on.
We haven’t been on an interstate in more than a week, so it does take a bit of getting used to having so much space and so much traffic, but we adjust quickly and settle in. We stop for lunch at a rest stop, hoping to pick up a Florida map but all there is in this huge building are restrooms—2 men’s and 2 women’s. We pull off just north of North Ft Myers for the next rest stop because it promises visitor info. Turns out that the rest stop is to the left and visitor info is to the right. Visitor info, and mind you this visitor info is touted on an official Florida sign, turns out to be a dozen pamphlets at the truck stop. I am irate at Florida for pulling my leg in such a manner.
We arrive at Flo and Ralph’s and wonderful odors emanate from the kitchen. The days are longer here, not only because of the coming spring but because we are so much farther south, and I lose track of time. We enjoy some time on the patio, get stuff out of the RV, start our laundry, and help make supper. Luckily, the RV is level so we can leave the refrigerator running and don’t have to bring all that food into the house. This will be our home for the next 4 nights.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
A Lazy Sunday--February 8
The roads don’t match the names on the iPhone so we stop to take a reading. The iPhone will only show us a blue dot in the middle of a gray background—no roads, nada. We move out from under the tree. Nada. I know that the iPhone knows abouts these roads because it sent me here! There are 5 bars so it’s not a reception problem. I check the settings. Nothing there that I can see to change.
When we hit Hwy 44 and turn on to Hwy 44A, which should take us right into Mt Dora, Norb decides that he just doesn’t feel comfortable riding on such a busy road with no shoulder. We stop at a BP, I check out a detailed local map to see if there is a different way to get there, we get some ice cream, eat it and decide to head back ‘home’. I call Shawn to see if he can figure out why the iPhone is not cooperating and he has no clue.
Once back at the RV park, I check out the pool and hear people playing euchre. When we check it out, we learn that a lesson is going on. We ask about bid euchre and one of the men there volunteers to give us a quick lesson. You need 6 people to play and you bid on the number of tricks you are going to take. Looks interesting.
When we get back to the RV I check the iPhone again. Nada on the maps. I do an update and voila! the maps are back again. Grrrr! I also go to mapmyride.com to see how far we have ridden—18 miles. The roads in mapmyride aren’t the same names we saw on the road OR the ones the iPhone used. Really frustrating. We relax, I update the phones and sync them, we take showers, it’s all quite mundane and generally uninteresting. After dinner we play cribbage and go to bed. Not much to write about, but very relaxing.
Most of the people in this park come here for the winter; some have been coming for 20! years. Everyone we talk to assumes that we are going to stay the rest of the winter. They can’t imagine why we would be moving on tomorrow. But, of course, we are the smallest thing here.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Manatees, Barbecue and RVs--Saturday, February 7
Reading an article it seems that the Fair Tax is 20% VAT and the logic is that you won’t have all this recordkeeping and a $100 item will cost $100 because the tax will be included. What they don’t seem to realize is that a $100 item will cost $120. And that there will be lots of recordkeeping. But I guess it’s better to keep it sounding simple. At least Florida doesn’t include the rebel flag in their state flag.
As we pass through Ocala we see a sign for a RV Show. Can’t resist. We try to find the route. Ms Garmin can’t locate it, a person we accost has no idea where the Florida Horse Park is, so we stumble on. Lo and behold, there is the road! We go south about 7 miles—the address is still Ocala—and find it. We check out the various versions of our RV, the 24 and 25 foot copycats, to see what they have improved and what isn’t as good. I do like the sealed burners on some of them and a few have granite countertops (1/4” thick but still granite). The best of the lot is by Guest House, but it is $130,000!!! Not likely. We do get some ideas about things we can do to ours, and I manage to sell a couple of people on the Navion before we leave.
It is 6 by the time we arrive at our home for the next two nights and the gate is closed. A woman appears at my window, identifies us, goes to get our information and let’s us know that if we go out, we must have an escort to our site when we come back in. This park is for 55+ and has over 300 sites. We settle in, make supper, and decide on a quiet night.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Florida at Last--February 6
We find a shop on the ocean where they are offloading a boatload of Apalachicola oysters. We aren’t particularly fond of oysters, but we do love shrimp, so we get a pound of the largest. We also splurge on some horseradish in hopes of pepping up the sauce we bought in Gulf Shores. Norb is all for just putting the horseradish in ketchup and giving up, but I think the sauce we have can be redeemed.
We pull into Perry, which has about a thousand motels (some out of the business but many still open; lots of “American owned” signs, which put me off, not that we are their target market anyway but still…) The guidebook says that the only reason to stop in Perry is because you are tired of driving, which is exactly why we are stopping in Perry. We don’t want to drive all the way to Umatilla. You can’t really understand how big this country is until you start driving it. We have driven 320 miles today and that’s essentially the distance west to east in the Florida panhandle (okay, plus a little bit). It got up to 60 today but is going back down to the upper 20’s tonight, they say. Tomorrow, tomorrow, there is warmth ahead.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Line Dancing and Singing--February 5
We take the bikes out again to check out the campsites at the state park. They rejected us last month when I tried to reserve a space for these 3 days, but we count at least 20 open spots, and we don’t even ride the whole park. Maybe people canceled because of the cold? The sites are larger at the state park, they have even more activities, and you can reserve for a whole month. First time I have seen a state park where you can stay more than 2 weeks. We go back down to the seaside highway and check out the dunes again. The sand is so soft and white; it’s like the sand in Cancun. I can see why people love these beaches. On the way home we stop at Waffle House and get crispy, crunchy hash browns (crispy, crispy, crispy ones). Norb gives the cook an additional tip.
Once back in camp after our 20 miles ride, we check out the air in the tires. The Accutire gauge dies on us and we can’t figure out how to open the battery case. I go on line, but they don’t seem to be carrying our model any more. Norb uses another gauge and discovers that the inner tires are REALLLY low. He puts me in charge of finding an RV place that can fill them when neighbors on either side of us ask, “What do you need?” And, of course, they have just what we need. People really are friendly and helpful. We have yet to find anybody in this park who hasn’t been coming here for at least 3 years. And everyone is surprised to find out that we are leaving so soon.
Tonight is jam session night. But jam session means that there are song books and 4 musicians and a program. Everybody (well, at least it seems like everybody) sings along to spirituals, folk songs, country and western songs, and pop songs. Quite a mix. One woman plays the hammered dulcimer and 3 play mountain dulcimers. It’s more a singalong than a jam session, but it’s delightful nonetheless.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
A Quiet Day--February 4
There is a bike trail right outside the park that takes us east to Gulf State Park. We then go in the direction of the ocean, always tantalizingly close but somehow it seems we are never going to get there. Then all of a sudden the road veers to the right and we are at Hwy 182 which runs along the ocean. All of the buildings along the shore are empty, there are 3 restaurants that are open—Waffle House, Hooters, and Marks Seafood. The sand is white and fine, much like the sand in Cancun. Wonder what it’s made of?
When we stop at a restaurant to see if they sell shrimp, I talk to the manager. He tells me that May, June, July and August are their busy months. Today he served 250 for lunch; during the summer they typically have 800. I suggest it might be a little warm down here in the summer and he heartily agrees and adds, “And it’s really humid!” He says that most of the people here now are the snowbirds and they leave before semester break when the place is inundated with college kids.
We find a seafood store on the way back home and get a pound of shrimp for supper. It’s a day like few others we’ve had—no great site, no special plans. I sew a button back on, mend a shirt, watch a little TV, check things out on the internet. Shrimp for dinner then games at the clubhouse—poker and whatever. For me whatever is more euchre. Four of us play and it’s a chance to learn people’s story. One of the women at the table doesn’t even live in the park; she and her husband have a condo a few miles away. They lived here for a year and a half after selling all their household things in Arizona and planning to full-time in their RV. But they got here and one month turned into two and then three and the next thing you know it was a year and a half and they decided they didn’t’ really want to full-time after all, so they sold the RV and bought the condo. But by this time they had so many friends in the park—and most of these people have been coming here for years—that they spend a lot of time even now in the park. It’s the birthday of another person at the table and she keeps leaving to take calls from family and friends. She and her husband come down in December and will be here until April. The other woman at the table is a newbie—they have only come for the past 2 years.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Finally at the Shore--February 3
We travel the backroads of Alabama to the Mobile area, where we finally connect with an interstate. There is lots of water here! We cross the bay at Mobile and then head south for another 22 miles before we turn west to our RV park. We had tried to make a reservation at Gulf State Park. No go. We did get a reservation at Island Retreat RV Park in Gulf Shores. We check in, get a map, find out about everything going on (euchre tonight, a free cookout Thursday, a bike trail that goes right along the edge of the park) and head for our campsite. When we are ensconced we walk the perimeter and find that there are 2 other open spaces. The man parked next to us has been here since December and won’t head home to Michigan until April.
We go to the community center for Euchre. These people are all from the Midwest—Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio. There are 7 tables of 4 playing, and 2 ‘leftovers’. It’s a good way to meet the people in the park and have short, introductory conversations. You can tell a lot about people when you play cards with them, and we come away with an idea of who we might want to meet again. We walk home with Ed, our neighbor, and find out about good places to ride our bikes. Tomorrow they come off the back. I don’t care how cold it is. The weather has been a constant source of conversation because the forecast is for 28 degrees tonight.
Home again we play with connecting the TV to the cable, the first time this trip we have even thought about putting it on. But, hey, it’s there and it’s free. Now if only we had headphones for it so that I could read and Norb could watch.
Aliceville German POW Camp--February 2
We are a day ahead of schedule since we couldn’t stop at our campground in the Missouri bootheel, so we decide to stop short of Mobile. Checking our Good Sam book we find a Corps of Engineers park near Demopolis, AL. Ms Garmin refuses to acknowledge its existence, so we flounder around for a while before stumbling upon it. The couple staffing the gate turn out to be interesting; they bid on the job, which is a year-long stint. They bid on how much they will get paid! Low bidder gets the job. They are leaving at the end of February for a new park because they were underbid on this park for next year. They work 4 days on, 4 days off, 6 AM to 10 PM. We ask how people find out about the park and he says it’s mainly word-of-mouth. It is possible to reserve on line but you need to know the park name to do it. He gives us brochures that show the various Corps parks in parts of the country, but I am puzzled as to how I will file them since they are by area, not by state. They give us a site right on the Tombigbee River, so that we can watch the barges go by. The cold front has moved in and by dark, when we are walking the campground, it is down to 45 degrees.
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Elvis, Elmwood, and A&R--February 1
We opt for the Platinum Ticket—no pikers, we. It gets us into 6 different venues rather than just the mansion. We bypass the picture opportunity, get our audio guides, and board the bus to go across the street. The tour is done at your own pace; nice. You can move through as quickly or as slowly as you wish. It’s all downstairs, which consists of living room, parents’ bedroom, dining room, kitchen, basement rec rooms, and the jungle room. “The upstairs was Elvis’ private area and we wish to respect his privacy.” The house was called Graceland when he purchased it at 22; at that time it was out in the country. No more. He added on the Jungle Room but in all it is a pretty modest abode, by comparison with what we read about today. Vernon’s office behind the house, the trophy room with yards and yards of gold records and costumes, and the racquetball court are part of the mansion tour. It’s pretty tacky with shag carpet on the walls and ceiling of the jungle room, lots of stained glass and glitter. But somehow you can picture Elvis in these spaces. Boy, did he love mirrors—ceiling, walls, no floors, though. The graves of Elvis, his parents, and his grandmother are also part of this tour. I had read that his middle name was Aron (thanks, crossword puzzles), but the gravestone says ‘Aaron’. Turns out that he thought it WAS Aron but his birth certificate says Aaron. His death certificate says Aron, which led many people to claim that the ‘real’ Elvis hadn’t died.
We also tour the Lisa Marie, the airplane he bought and outfitted for a million dollars. It features a living room, study/bedroom, Elvis’ bedroom, and 2 half baths. Not too shabby. He kept a pilot and crew on call 24 hours a day and once flew to Colorado so Lisa Marie could play in the snow for 15 minutes. He also flew a group to Denver for peanut butter sandwiches.
Roadfood.com recommended A&R for Memphis barbecue; their slogan, “Anybody can take the heat 2 the meat, but only a few can barbecue.” In true Memphis fashion, it comes with slaw on it, but we get a side of slaw anyway. Good barbecue, but Hecky’s is better.
Last stop in Memphis, Elmwood Cemetery. It is noted for its 4 sections: Confederate, Union, black, and white. It is one of thoese arboretum cemeteries with huge old trees and huge old monuments. Lessons learned: don’t try to take an 11’ RV into an old cemetery with overhanging trees. We try to follow the audio tour route (without the audio tour), figuring it was the most interesting but the trees do us in. We think we find a gypsy section because one of the gravestones has this 4 foot high drawing of gypsy caravans and a camp on it. We give up and head for Columbus, MS.
Ms Garmin is talking to us again, thanks to my update last night. My Mac is recharged. The sun is out. It is 60 degrees. Life is good. Once in Columbus, we look for a place to watch the Super Bowl. It is Club 509 on Main St, advertising 2 for 1 beers. Mississippi only allows beer sales on Sunday if you are a bar and not a resort. 509 has a tapas menu, perfect for watching the Super Bowl, and only 3 tables of watchers. And, hey, they have the 3D glasses so we can watch the half time commercial. What more could you ask for?
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Checking Out Memphis--Saturday, January 31
We use the iPhone to locate an RV parts store to replace our water filter so that we can fill up the water. First one is a dud. No filter. I call the second. We are in luck. We put the address in Ms Garmin and head off. While Norb is getting the filter I look for a nearby Radio Shack in hopes of getting a cable to fix the Garmin problem. Just down the street. About 100 yards south of…tad ah! We are in Memphis, after all. Graceland. We’ll come back tomorrow.
No fix for the Mac but we do get a cable for the Garmin and, while we are there, we buy some small speakers for the iPhone for our ocean voyage in March. The young man assisting us has been so helpful, giving us the address of the Apple store, trying to solve our problems, that I feel we owe him something.
Our first museum of the day is the National Ornamental Metal Museum on the banks of the Mississippi. Once part of a military hospital, the brick building has 4 small galleries with a variety of pieces, some large, some small, some abstract, some humorous (remind me to show you the pictures of a few of the Wallys). We watch them making a hammer for a bit, admire a commission of 80 beehive pieces that is being created for a commission, and wonder the grounds looking at various pieces. I liked the place very much.
Then we head for the National Civil Rights Museum, created in and around the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King was killed. There is a special exhibit on important black women that has a very interesting video on Rosa Parks and the background on the bus case. The museum itself starts at the beginning and pretty much ends with King’s death. If you go, I recommend the headsets. It is almost overwhelming to be reminded again of how awful blacks were treated. The motto for the Birmingham sanitation workers strike was “I am a man.” To me that sums up the entire thing—blacks were treated as less than human.
Across the street in the former boarding house where Ray was when he shot King is another exhibit, essentially on Ray, the shooting, the aftermath, and the various theories around him. Did he act alone? How did he finance himself? Why did he do it? Etc. No answers, just a lot of questions.
It was 2:30 by the time we finish so we eat lunch in the RV, call the Apple store and are told that we need to make an appointment with a Genius to get our problem taken care of. So we set up a 6:45 appointment.
Then we head north to downtown Memphis. We find a place to park on the street and walk 4 blocks to the Center for Southern Folklore. Turns out to be a store with lots of CDs etc. The very friendly woman puts a very interesting video on the TV about Beale Street and southern musicians. I have a latte and we watch. Then we check out the Peabody Hotel. Reminds me of the Palmer House and the Drake Hotel in Chicago. Of course, we don’t have any ducks in our fountain in the middle of the hotel. Peabody Place turns out to be a big dud. All of the shops on the second floor are closed and many of the first floor shops are shuttered. It’s a dying mall.
Beale Street, on the other hands, is quite alive. I hadn’t realized that it was originally the center of black social life, but it was. We buy US flag pins at Schwab’s, which is the oldest store on Beale and still reeks of five-and-dime. We cross the trolley tracks to walk along the river for a while. Mud Island, which has a five block long replica of the Mississippi, doesn’t open until April, but we can see it laying out there so close.
We head for Germantown and the Apple store, some 22 miles away! Turns out to be a very upscale area, quite a contrast to Memphis. It’s 5:50 when we arrive, but we go in hoping we can solve the problem easily without waiting until 6:45. No luck. I am 8th on the list of people waiting to talk to a Genius, according to the monitor. We wander around. 45 minutes later, I am 7th. We find out that we need to check in, so we do. Norb is pretty annoyed by the fact that no one told us that we needed to check in. I settle on a stool to wait and he takes the cord and goes to talk to the store manager. To make a long story short, we walk out of there 5 minutes later with a new cord—complimentary. He really is very good.
We make the 22 mile drive back to Memphis and settle in to the Elvis Presley RV Park, right next to Heartbreak Hotel. I kid you not. Tomorrow, barbecue, the cemetery, and Graceland.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Leaving Springfield--Friday, January 30
We keep looking for more information on road conditions south of here and when we stop for lunch they have wifi so I get the computer out. We find out that I-55 is open through the bootheel but all of the sideroads from exit 99 south in Missouri are closed because of downed power lines due to the ice storm. We call the casino campground we were planning on staying at in Caruthersville and learn that there is no power in the RV park. We decide to go on to Memphis.
As we drive north signs by the road warn us that there is no gas or food or services from exit 99 south. Almost like entering a theater, after we pass exit 99 the trees and shrubs are coated with ice inches thick. Thousands and thousands of trees are broken off, some laying near the highway. We stop counting electrical power line repair trucks after we pass 100. Lines lay down all along the road, no lights, desolation. We had planned to stop in Sikeston at Lambert’s, home of the throwed roll, but, sorry, Marilyn, there’s no way they were going to be open. Besides the road is closed.
We pass into Arkansas and the ice gradually diminishes, the temperature goes up, and we only see repair trucks on the road heading north. We decide on the West Memphis KOA, which is really near Marion and about 10 miles from Memphis. It is really in the middle of nowhere. We shop at Kroger, get a roasted chicken and some cole slaw, take it back to the campground and make supper. We are warm and safe and home for the night.
I settle in to write this blog and, when I get the computer out, discover that I have left part of the plug for the Mac in the outlet in Springfield. Curses! We call and ask them to mail it to Aunt Flo. That means that I am going to have to figure out something to do until them to power the Mac.
Out with the governor, Thursday, January 29
Word spreads that he is going to be coming down the hall and up the elevator to the Senate chambers so everyone takes up a position on the railing overlooking the hall. Next thing you know word comes down that he is in the Senate. We go down to the basement cafeteria where they are broadcasting his appeal to the Senate. We listen and shake our heads in disbelief at his approach—basically, he says, I should be forgiven any wrongs because I did them to help the sick and the children and the elderly. Also, you shouldn’t impeach me because it would be so embarrassing to my children. Amazing.
We leave to go to lunch and out the west door where his SUV is sitting and the photographers are poised to catch Blago as he departs. I have had enough so I head to the car and wait. The SUV pulls out and drives to the south door, with photographers in hot pursuit. As it turns out, we see Blago come out of the building and into the car. Big deal!
We are told that Lt Gov Quinn and the Illinois supreme court justices are standing by to swear in a new governor. Also word is that the governor was quick to get on the plane back to Chicago while he still had a state plane at his beck and call. Each of the senators gets 5 minutes at speak—all 59 of them. We watch the vote on the TV and, I must admit, are amazed that it is 59 to 0.
We watch the Weather channel to see what is going on south of us, trying to figure our where the terrible ice storm has hit and how that affects our travel path. Even on the internet we can’t figure out what is going on. They are predicting anothing big storm coming in next week. We are planning to be south of it all by Tuesday, and hope that we don’t have a rough time getting through the storm area.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Leaving Home--Wednesday, January 28, 2009
It really didn’t take us 2 days straight to get ready. We had to plan the trip, finalizing some dates and deciding if we needed to make reservations. As it turned out, we couldn’t get into the Gulf State Park Campground in Gulf Shores, AL. Full up. So we made reservations at private RV park. We are also planning to spend 4 days on Jekyl Island and when I tried to get reservations on line they said to call the park and maybe they would have a space. Well, luck held, they did. So we have 4 days on Jekyl Island reserved. The rest we will wing and hope.
We also spent time loading books onto iTunes so that we could load them on to the iPhone. Taking disks and books back to the library. And all the other things that one decides suddenly need to get done because you are going to be gone for a month.
We gather all the stuff in the front room. Got to find a better way, though, perhaps keep doubles of things and put them aside for the RV. We are getting better at it, but we have a long way to go. It is a bit different when we go away for a month than when we go away for a week.
We begin packing. Three inches of new snow means that I shovel the sidewalks before anything else. First the bikes go in. Last thing in are the batteries. We took out one of the seats and collapsed the back. Amazingly we fit everything in. Tucked the open wine in a small space behind the seat. Took along bourbon, vodka, beer, and Baileys. Also took a case of Squirt because it’s impossible to find outside of Chicago.
It’s 32 degrees inside the RV. I’m surprised it’s that high because it’s 11 outside. Norb has devised a method so that we can both lift the truck battery at the same time. It’s the coolie method, a long board that goes through the battery handles and a screw and a screw driver on either side of the battery handles to keep them from sliding along the board as we carry it. We lift, hoist, carry it to the front of the open engine compartment. Next step, we ease the wires out of the way. Ease isn’t exactly the word because everything is stiff from the cold. Okay, we push the wires aside. Ease in the battery. Norb attaches the various wires, climbs in the cab, crosses his fingers, and starts the RV. Yay!!! Next come the house batteries. More of a challenge. Have to pull the RV out of the space because the snow is up to the base of the steps and getting the brackets that hold the battery in place means lying on the ground. Who wants to lie down in a foot of snow? Once we get out into an open area in the parking lot, we are back in business.
We get those in with a comparative minimum of difficulty and that means we can turn on the heat. I start unloading the car and loading the RV; Norb works on the bikes. The foam topper for the bed is hard and stiff. I decide not to try to unfold it for fear it will crack into pieces. I retrieve the Travasak; joy of joys, the sheets are in there. Everything goes into its place. By the time we leave, the house has warmed up to 55. It’s a little space so it warms up fast, folks.We pay for our month’s storage and hit the road a little after noon.
Traffic is relatively light and the only problem is the sun glare off the snow. Once you get out of the metropolitan areas there are fields on both sides, white covered, gleaming in the bright sun. Why does the glare make you sleepy? We stop for lunch at Wendy’s. My usual Wendy’s buy is chili, baked potato, and a frosty—each 99 cents. Would you believe they have raised the prices to $1.39 each?
We change drivers about halfway and I bring us into Springfield and Marilyn and Dennis’ home (Norb’s sister and brother-in-law). Seems that the decision to stay a few days in Springfield is a good one because there are serious storms south of here.